The new “Midnight Flight” at Albion Malleable Brewing Company serves up four dark beers so you can celebrate the end of daylight savings time, and a happy hour that begins when the sun goes down.
The president of Albion College sits behind me. He enjoys his recent retirement announcement in school gear and a bowl of tomato soup. Gentle laughter presides under the massively generous ceilings and raw brickwork. Communal tables make this place a modern Valhalla. The warriors do go here.
“Keeping Craft Food Interesting!”
The air is a little chilly, but every stylized tulip glass has a strong white Belgian lace around the rim as it’s emptied. Everything at Malleable exemplifies local craftsmanship, and it’s a deliberate choice made in the middle of Albion’s comeback story. Hand-crafted great-hall tables that lead to a wonderfully communal atmosphere were quickly modified for maximum comfort after opening, and the hot spot has grown to highlight so many local stories, from musicians like Albion College alumni duo F I N K E L (formerly Less Is More) to family-grown hops from Mean Hops. The quality is consistent and stands out in the beer, the food, and the community.
Albion Malleable Brewing Company is named after the Albion Malleable Iron Company – a dominant source of manufacturing jobs and a point of pride in Albion’s history. Pronounced “mal-uh-bull,” a tradition that continues after the namesake merged with the Hayes Corporation, the brewery now remembers many facets of Albion’s interesting stories through its beer, its food, and its marketing. Recently, they named their new Belgian series after an Albion Malleable Iron cast “iron lion” gifted to them.
The high ceilings can echo, and when the space if packed like it is on Monday nights for live music, it can be difficult carry an intimate conversation across the large tables. Sit back and enjoy the music instead – the quality is consistent in the performance as well as the food and beer. This isn’t the place for romance, unless you’re focusing on the deep-seated community pride and the wide friendships observed in the hugs and handshakes from each new customer through the door.
Albion Malleable Brewing Company has big dreams, yet it is a small town bar. It may not be Cheers, but it is Albion.
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Albion Malleable Brewing is worth the price – but it can be pricey. I appreciate the work they do to appropriately price their beer. For a quality pint of Belgian or a powerful IPA, prices start at $5.00. Also offering 5 oz. pours and well-stylized take-away growlers, Malleable’s food remains it’s critical price point. If you have the money, the food is worth it, and with a constantly shifting menu due to Chef Joe’s creative energy and seasonal dishes, I keep going back. All dishes are made from scratch, and Chef Joe is always working to add new sauces or unique touches to their American classics. Lunch specials include a $7.00 burger with fries, but specialty burgers start at $13.00 (with a second patty for an addition $2.00).
Coming up soon on December 10, with French Chef Frédéric Thery teaming up with Chef Joe for a Prix Frixe 5-course French Dinner, Albion Malleable is once again trying something new. Tickets start at $80/person, or $150 for a couple, because once again – Albion Malleable is going to do it right.
Last night, I enjoyed the set of four 5 oz. tasters for the aptly named “Midnight Flight.”
Four 5 oz. pours for $7.00?
First off, “American Molder” – Sitting at 5.9% ABV and not as thick as some stouts, this beer prioritizes immense flavor. Solidly stout, this dark beer has defined dark chocolate and black coffee acidity. The quiet creaminess stems from the rolled oats, a classic move for stouts to give a thicker mouthfeel. Sip slowly and you can taste the sweetness.
“Saboteur” – This dark beer is face-warming, with strong thick legs remaining on the taster glass and and spicy haze hovering under the nose. Strong and blended flavors muddle the high the alcohol content of 9.7% ABV. A candied bitterness, it’s an intriguing pairing of crystallized ginger and bitter, dry dark chocolate, reminiscent of spiced rum. Once again, this is a clean and remarkably crisp beer considering how dark it stands in the glass.
“Batch #72” – With surprising though subtle flavors of dates, mulberry, mincemeat pie, and light molasses, this is an immensely drinkable black saison that is appropriately autumnal. At 5.7% ABV, get a full pint.
“Squirrel Smuggler” – This 7.4% ABV beer gets in your nose, spicy and fresh, with strong citrus and smooth black mud. A different animal. One of my favorites and a seasonal oxymoron, this black IPA is too fresh to stay confined to the dog days of winter. Squirrel Smuggler stays crisp and bitter, just like Albion’s black squirrels in November.
Yes, there’s a story. No, we won’t tell it.
Albion Malleable Brewing Company, on the namesake of Squirrel Smuggler Black IPA
The Crowd
Just like the college campus’ black squirrels, Albion Malleable has well-known regulars.
When I visited this week, it was trivia night, and I was quickly invited to join the team of physic professor and part-owner Charles Moreau. Also on the team were sibling duo John and Val, regulars at Albion Malleable. They are mug-club members, also known affectionately as “Proper Villains” after the Malleable beer by that name. Peridocially released, mug-club membership includes discounted beer and a one-of-a-kind hand-crafted mug by Albion’s own Ken Shenstone.
They shout “science” when the category is called out, and compete not for one of the gift-card prizes, but league points in Team Trivia. Malleable has had a few regular trivia hosts, who all come to know many of the guests by their frequent flyer status and their iconic team names.
Sauces
Water at Malleable comes without lemon, but the burgers and fries come with malt vinegar, ketchup, and “special sauce,” a secret sriracha-mayo flavor offering that’s one of the most ugly delicious things I’ve ever eaten. Sauces tend to be so, and the wing specials are drenched in creative options, all house made. Recently, their rotating “wing week” included Korean gochujang peanut barbecue wings, their home beer-infused 420 Superior sauce, classic barbecue, jalapeno honey mustard, garlic parmesan, and Nashville hot varieties.
Team Trivia’s song plays as we await the right answer for the last question. It’s “Last Christmas” by Wham!, as Moreau brings out classic buffalo wings and offers them to the trivia group. He explains that it took him 30 years develop the buffalo, but the new 420 Hops and Honey sauce is a solid rival. A creation by Chef Joe, the 420 sauce has a unique flavor from the Malleable’s “420 Superior Juice,” a 7.4% ABV hazy IPA named with a smirk after the street address of the brewery in downtown Albion.
My regular beer, Uncle Cousin, is just too drinkable: flavors of tangerine, grapefruit and hops, crisp and hazy but not too bitter. The beer has Centennial and Summit hops, and the bitter Nugget variety.
I pair it with the “true coney sauce made from scratch” – it’s spicy, a little thinner than Kirby’s with a some high-impact flavors. Toppings include classic yellow mustard and onion and the dog sits cozily in a firm bun that doesn’t fall apart halfway through. Most entrees include the hand-cut french fries and a side, choice of the sriracha cole slaw or a house-brined cucumber salad. Food is served on classy white bowls or tin sheet plates with newspaper. Plating emphasizes the food and local traditions.
My seasonal favorite is the Blonde in the Iron Lion Belgian Series. Mellow and yummy, it comes in a special 13 oz. glass. Blonde is a sweet and subtle classic Belgian, with smooth malts and low profile yeast that reminds you of its simplicity while letting you enjoy the prominent tradition of Belgian beer.
We celebrate with a trivia question win of Rhonda Rousey for 1 point. The home team is almost perfect at halftime. Staff are willing to talk about the beer – come often enough and you’ll notice that they hangout at Albion Malleable as well. The widespread ownership and appreciation for the goings-on at the brewery quietly show the steady support for the new business.
The Town of Albion
Albion has more pride than Malleable Brewing has hops in its hoppy IPAs – and that is loads. I’ve come to love this town over the last seven years, and the many changes and battles it has endured only add to its storied history. Here, the vicious Purple Gang of Detroit carried influence. Here, the realities of post-industrial small-town Michigan have led to an appreciation for hard-work, creativity, multiculturalism and diversity, and ultimately a deep pride in the successes and togetherness of the community.
Recently, the Great Lake-to-Lake Trail, the Iron Belle Hiking Trail, and North Country Trail are developing a sense of exploration for local residents, and a quiet surprise as visitors pass through the town. These trails provide a new way to discover Albion and the small towns around it. Nearby, the Falling Waters Trail carries hikers and bikers from the Martin Luther King Jr. Equality Trail in Jackson, Michigan to Concord, Michigan, on a paved 12 foot wide 10.5 mile path through small farms and lakes.
Next time you pass by on I-94, check out Albion – and check out Albion Malleable Brewing Company or one of the many local restaurants. Keep an eye for more restaurant reviews here!
Valhalla's Table 